Dag 25
Tijdens het ontbijt besluiten we vandaag een bezoek te brengen aan Cape Coast Castle, een handelsfort uit de 17e eeuw. Tijdens het ontbijt verteld Eva over haar droom: “Na een paar dagen niet thuis geweest te zijn, kwam ik thuis en zag dat we een kitten hadden. Een hele mooie lichte kitten met licht grijze strepen ( Floortje maar dan met andere kleuren). Ik vroeg hoe ze heette en m’n moeder zei dat we dat nog samen moesten beslissen. Ik zei gelijk dan noemen we haar Bruni. Mijn vraag was alleen waarom we opeens nog een kitten hebben. Mijn moeder vond het toch wel heel erg leuk om een kat te hebben (waarschijnlijk omdat Floortje mijn kindje is).”
Na het ontbijt wordt er voor ons een taxi gebeld. Na aankomst van de taxi, en wat onderhandelen over de prijs, gaan we op weg. Het is zo’n 20 minuten rijden en we worden keurig bij het fort afgezet. We lopen naar de zee direct bij het fort en staan een tijdje naar de enorme golven te kijken. Als ze tegen de rotsen slaan, spuit het water echt meters hoog in de lucht. Beneden op het strand en de rotsen liggen 7 oude kanonnen. We denken dat deze op de rotsen hebben gestaan die in de loop van de tijd zijn afgebrokkeld waarbij de kanonnen naar beneden zijn gevallen.
Met de bouw van het fort werd aan het begin van de 17e eeuw begonnen door de Portugezen waarna het, nadat het was veroverd door de Engelsen, door hen werd afgebouwd. We krijgen een rondleiding en luisteren aandachtig naar de gids die verteld over de slaven die hier maanden in donkere kerkers gevangen zaten voordat ze werden afgevoerd naar vooral Amerika, Suriname en Brazilië. Vaak zaten er 1000 slaven samengepakt in de kerkers. Deze waren klein en het was dan ook onmogelijk dat iedereen tegelijk kon liggen. De rillingen lopen over je rug bij het horen van deze verschrikkingen.
Slaven die stierven tijdens het verblijf in het fort werden met een bootje de zee op gevaren en daar over boord gezet. Verder kregen we een cel te zien waar slaven die in opstand waren gekomen, of een ontsnappingspoging hadden gedaan, zonder eten of drinken in het aardedonker werden opgesloten. De cel had drie dikke deuren waardoor er nauwelijks zuurstof doordrong in de cel. De man of vrouw in de cel stierf dan ook binnen enkele dagen aan honger, dorst, maar vooral zuurstofgebrek.
Bijna aan het eind van de rondleiding kwamen we bij de ‘door of no return’ waar de slaven bij uitkwamen als ze via tunnels uit de kerkers werden geleid. Vervolgens gingen ze door deze deur naar de schepen die in de haven voor anker lagen.
In het midden van de vorige eeuw, op 1 augustus, zijn er twee overleden slaven, die begraven waren in de Verenigde Staten, teruggebracht naar Ghana. De stoffelijke resten zijn in de haven bij het fort aan land gebracht en via de ‘door of no return’ het fort ingedragen. Sindsdien staat er aan de buitenkant van deze deur een bord met de tekst ‘door of return’. Al jarenlang is 1 augustus, en eigenlijk al de hele week ervoor, in Ghana een periode dat er wordt stilgestaan bij dit donkere deel van de geschiedenis.
In het museum van het fort konden we onder meer lezen over hoe de slaven, samengepakt als haringen in een ton, in de schepen werden vervoerd naar slavenmarkten in verre landen om vervolgens te moeten werken op de katoen- en tabakplantages.
Naast de ingang van de kerker van de mannelijke slaven is een plaquette in de muur gemetseld met de tekst dat deze in 2009 is onthuld door Barak Obama en zijn vrouw Michelle tijdens hun bezoek aan Ghana. Aan de andere kant van de toegang hangt een plaquette met de tekst dat ellende als slavernij in de toekomst nergens ter wereld ooit nog mag gebeuren.
Na het bezoek aan het fort lopen we door wat straatjes van het stadje op zoek naar een terrasje waar we iets kunnen eten en drinken maar vinden niets. Bovendien is de rioollucht in de straten zo overweldigend dat het eten of drinken toch niet lekker zou smaken. We regelen een taxi en gaan terug naar Ko-Sa Beach waar we na terugkomst iets eten en drinken en nog even aan het strand gaan hangen.
We zijn uitgenodigd bij een optreden van de Nederlandse dansgroep in het dorp naast het resort en Marjolijn en Henry gaan er even heen. Eva is niet lekker en heeft flinke keelpijn, dus zij en Ruben blijven in het huisje. Bij het optreden is de opkomst vanuit het dorp erg groot en het is leuk om te zien dat de bewoners het erg waarderen. Er wordt veel gelachen en geapplaudiseerd. Na het optreden van de Nederlandse dames treedt er een plaatselijke dansgroep met drie jongens en drie meiden op. Grappig maar een beetje veel van het zelfde.
We zijn precies op tijd terug voor het eten. Henry eet weer spagetti bolognese, Marjolijn gaat aan de coescoes, Ruben eet kip met pata en Eva eet spagetti met kaassaus. Na het eten wordt er weer rummikub gespeeld en tikt Henry dit stukje.
Eén van de Ghanese drummers aan de tafel met de Nederlandse dansgroep wordt toegezongen omdat hij jarig is en krijgt een emmer water over zich heen. Hij lacht wel, maar is niet blij.
Straks wordt er een strandvuur ontstoken en gaan we even kijken of het er gezellig is.
July 17th, 2023 at 11:36
sv388
Akwaabe Ghana
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Akwaabe Ghana